If your Mazda 6’s heat only works when driving, there are five leading causes you should check. They are low coolant, air pockets, a bad heater core, an airlocked cooling system, and a malfunctioning thermostat. We’ll start with the easy-to-check common problems and work our way to the harder-to-deal-with rarer issues that could be
My Idle varies from 750 to 2000RPMs. It jumps up and down constantly. When this happens taking off can be a pain and usally bucks or stalls the engine. This also leads the acceleration problems. When reving over 4000RPM quickly, the engine tends to buck/cough or cut out. Seems to be getting worse.When it goes out, then that is the circuit that is causing the draw. If not, then the battery is bad, as it can't hold a charge. The recommendation for maximum parasitic drain is around 30 mA (0.030 amp). A typical drain today actually falls into the 7-12 mA range, even though some vehicles do approach the maximum.
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